ELECTRICITY, SURVIVAL BASICS 
Q: What is 
electricity, exactly? It shows up in nature as a spark or a lightning bolt, but 
the electricity challenged are used to taking this for granted, flipping the 
switch and the lights come on and the appliances work, but the HOW of this is a 
mystery to most, certainly to me. I'm one of the electricity challenged, and 
don't I know it. 
In a wish to be technically correct, I will be 
using some notes I prepared. Please bear with me on this.
I will answer 
by talking about the basics. Electricity is just a flow of electrons. Electrons 
are a very small particle with a negative charge. Electricity is a particle 
flow. It is analogous to water flow. 
You mention lightning bolt as a 
spark in nature. Some people think these electrons are created at the point o f 
the spark. This is not the case electrons are in everything. They are in the 
clouds and in the air. When they get pushed in a direction say between clouds 
with enough pressure they produce the spark you see. 
Current is measured 
in amperes. One amp is 63 with 17 zeros after it of electrons flowing in a 
conductor past a given point in one sec. This number is not important to 
remember. The main concept to remember is one amp is a large quantity of 
electrons flowing past a given location in one sec. 
In the water analogy 
this would be the same as counting the number of water molecules that go past a 
given location in any one unit of time. This again would be a very large number 
so we typically measure this in cubic feet per minute or more practically 
buckets full/hour. 
No one likes to work with large numbers so in like 
manner the word amperes has been assigned a given quantity flow of electrons in 
a unit of time. Now rather than count electrons each time we use them, we can 
measure them by the number of buckets full/sec or by simply by saying so many 
amps.
Voltage is analogous to pressure. In the water analogy the height 
of water determines the amount of pressure. Take the case of the old fashion 
water tower that used to be prevalent in cities long ago. The height of the tank 
provides the pressure. Those living in lower areas get more pressure. Pressure 
in water is measured in lbs per square inch. . In like manner Voltage is the 
amount of pressure behind any given electron to cause it to move along the 
conductor. A typical car battery for example has a pressure of 12 volts. 
One Volt is the amount of pressure necessary to force one Amp of 
electrons through a resistor of one Ohm producing one Watt of power. We have all 
felt the heat from a 100 watt light bulb. So we have an idea of what one watt 
would approximately be.
Ohm is a unit of electrical resistance equal to 
the resistance between two points on a conductor when a potential difference of 
one volt between them produces a current of one ampere. What this is saying is 
when you can take a wire and measure one volt from one end to the other with a 
current of one amp flowing you have a wire that has a resistance of one ohm. 
This is just an arbitrary amount of resistance based on earlier defined terms. 
In the water analogy the smaller the pipe the larger the resistance to flow. In 
like manner the smaller the electrical conductor the larger the resistance. 
Now back to your "mystery of flipping the switch and the lights come 
on". When one takes a very small wire of tungsten and forces lots of electrons 
to go through it, what happens? The resistance of the particles flowing cause 
heat and this heat has to escape some how. For any given wire a low flow might 
give off heat as a toaster does in the infrared range. A larger flow would give 
off light as light bulbs do in the visible range. An even larger flow would melt 
the wire. This is what happens in a fuse. No mystery here, just small particles 
that are not able to be seen with the naked eye that are flowing doing work for 
us.
A watt is the product of the voltage in volts and the current in 
amperes or amps. 1000 watt is one kilowatt. One watt load that is powered for 
one hour will consume one Watthour of power.
DC stands for direct current 
and is a flow in one direction. AC stands for Alternating Current and is a push 
pull flow, at the rate of 60 times per min.
The following simple formulas 
result for DC circuits.
V (volts) = I (Current in amps) * R (Resistance in 
ohms)
P (power in watts) = V (Volts) * I (Current in amps)
Watt hours = 
watts * hours of use
Ampere-hours = Amps flowing from a battery * number of 
hours it flows
These simple formulas are very valuable for determining what 
is needed in a circuit to make it work correctly, for understanding batteries, 
and power sources.
Does this answer you questions on this 
subject?
Q: Alternating Current? Why wouldn't all electricity be 
just Direct Current? This seems a more, um, direct approach. Are both systems 
being used, in the world of electrical appliances? Is this something I need to 
be aware of? What are we getting now, in our service from the electric company? 
Are setups either/or, either DC or AC? In particular, what does this mean for 
life after the coming pole shift? I found something on the Troubled Times pages, 
in the Energy Section. 
Tomas Edison the inventor of the light bulb championed DC or direct current 
that flows in one direction only. During the same time frame Nikola Tesla 
championed AC or alternating current a push pull of flow from the generating 
plant. AC won out because it had advantages of using transformers for 
distribution. At higher voltages AC is little less dangerous than DC. AC is 
easer to step-up to a higher voltages using step-up transformers to allow it to 
be piped over a longer distance than DC. DC will not work with transformers. DC 
is easer to store as chemical energy in batteries thus used for portability. As 
a result today we only get AC from our electric companies. We can convert this 
to DC as needed to charge batteries. Batteries give us energy storage and 
portability. 
I believe power after the coming pole shift will mostly 
take two forms, 12 Volt DC and 115 Volt AC. 12 volt batteries will be used for 
storage. 115 volt AC will be used for those items we have that will not run 
directly on 12 volts. A DC to AC inverter will be used to convert form 12 Volts 
DC to 115 AC when needed. 
Plan on having several inverters each with a 
different power rating. Use the one with the lowest rating that will work at the 
time. This saves power usage in the long run. The ones with lower power ratings 
draw lower amounts of current when idling with inverter on and with no AC power 
is being used.
After the PS the use of existing 12 Volt car batteries for 
some will be the only thing available. When preparing before a PS, select and 
purchase 6 large 2 volt cells and wire them in series to produce 12 volts. This 
gives the most economical maintainable setup. 
For portable batteries, 
use AAA through D size rechargeable NI-MH or NI-CAD. NI-CAD holds less and has a 
slower internal leakage so it will stay charged up longer. NI-CADs can be use in 
clocks and things that don't use much current over time. NI-MH works good with 
portable communication devices or where light weight and more power is needed. 
Does this answer you questions on this subject?
Q: How do 
batteries work? How can chemistry hold electricity? And why do the electrons 
move from one side of the battery to the other? 
There 
is something on the Troubled Times pages, that implies different metal on one 
side from the other side, so there is a natural flow of electrons in that 
direction. It seems these different types of metal, zinc and iron, are not 
touching, but a fluid is in between them. So maybe one metal has an attraction 
or pull for electrons, and the other normally has an excess or natural push for 
electrons, perhaps. 
This quote from the Boy Mechanic describes a home 
made battery, and it emphasizes that the different metal types should not touch, 
using plaster of Paris and paraffin to prevent this. so a flow starts between 
them via the fluid, only. I guess the poles, positive and negative, of the 
battery are attached to the different metal types. Let me quote:
This example that you read about can be visualized simply as a plate of Zink 
and one of Iron with a strong base of Lye for the fluid in between. As explained 
it produces 1.2 volts. In actuality any two different metals can be made into a 
battery. All that is needed is a strong acid or sometime a strong base. Some 
metals work better than others and some acids or basic solutions work better 
than others. This is all a given. However, in a primitive environment you have 
what you have as a result of scrounging. For example Sulfuric acid can be made 
from the sulfur found around volcanic activity. Yellow sulfur melts in super 
heated steam form underground and comes to the surface where it cools. To make 
Sulfuric acid Sulfur is burned with lots of oxygen and the fumes passed over or 
through water. Use preferably distilled water. The water near volcanic activity 
can also contain sulfuric acid. It can also contain other salts that are not 
good for a battery to hold a charge. A primitive Lye can be made from wood ashes 
as a result of a camp or forest fires. 
The other thing one needs to know 
about batteries, is the more the surface area for each plate the higher the 
amount of stored energy. The current capacity is directly related to surface 
area of the plates. 
Each type of battery has different chemistry some 
works better than others. Within a chemical reaction, there is stored the 
pressure of pushing electrons. When discharging occurs the chemical reaction is 
going into a lower energy state and forcing electrons to be pushed out of the 
negative plate in a battery with a given pressure or voltage. 
Chemical 
reactions are basically ions or compounds that have a charge when in solution. 
They move in the solution to the plate they like the most, and in the process 
put pressure on the electrons in that plate. When they get to the negative plate 
they put pressure on electrons to flow out of that plate. When they get to the 
positive plate they want to pull electrons into it. An important concept is 
electrons are not being created in a battery; they are only being pumped or 
pushed from one plate to the other because of the stored chemical 
energy.
The direction of electrical flow is determined by the element and 
compounds used in each plate. The reaction is usually reversible - one can pump 
electrons in the reverse direction to charge the battery and store energy as a 
chemical reaction.
An example is the Lead-Acid Cell. A fully charged cell 
has the negative plate made of spongy lead. This is to give it more surface 
area. The positive plate is made of lead Peroxide. The electrolyte is mostly 
sulfuric acid. For a fully discharged cell both plates are made up of a coating 
of lead sulfate and the electrolyte is mostly water. 
The cell discharges 
when at the electrolyte or acid becomes water and the positive plate or lead 
peroxide is used up. The negative plate for this cell is more to complete the 
electrical circuit than anything else. The cell charges when lead sulfate goes 
into solution making sulfuric acid and the positive plate becomes lead Peroxide 
again. 
Batteries are often rated in Ampere-Hrs. This is the number of 
amps that can be delivered in one hour. It is a figure of merit that gives a 
measure of the number of electrons able to be pushed down a wire by the battery 
over a given time. 
Does this answer you questions on this 
subject?
Q: So, you were saying something about putting batteries 
in a series, so the flow is stronger? What if one of the batteries goes bad, 
does it drag the others down? I suppose there are ways to test if a battery is 
good, and what does it mean for a battery to go bad, anyway. Does the metal get 
eaten up? Does the fluid have to be acid or alkaline? Sorry to be such a dummy. 
When cells or batteries are connected positive terminal to 
negative terminal they are end to end they are said to be in series. For a water 
flow analogy consider an output of one fire truck connected to the input of 
another fire truck. Can you predict the result? The last fire truck can shoot 
water much higher than any one truck. It would be the same amount of water but 
with much more pressure. This would have application for a fire in a tall 
building. So to answer you question yes this increase in pressure could be 
considered to be a stronger flow.
Batteries wired in series make for more 
voltage. One adds up the voltage of each cell to get the result for the series 
connection. The current flow is still the same as any one battery in the string. 
If one battery cell [in a series] stops working then the flow is stopped 
or slowed down for the rest. 
Remember this when it comes to 12 volt 
batteries for they are made up of 6 cells of 2 volts/each in series.
When 
cells or batteries are connected with positive terminal to positive and negative 
to negative they are said to be in parallel. For a water flow analogy, consider 
4 fire trucks in parallel side by side all pumping there water on a fire. One 
adds up the quantity of water from each to get the total volume flow. 
Each is limited to the pressure that can be generated from only one 
truck so the pressure is the same for each. This would be good for a large low 
building fire. For batteries so connected the current adds up to be the sum of 
each. The voltage ends up to be the same as any one of them.
After 
several years of working with 6 and 12 volt batteries at a seldom visited remote 
site, I have finally learned a few valuable lessons worth sharing. When building 
and using a battery bank for remote power the following practical general rules 
apply.
General Rule: 1) Do not connect a number of 12 volt batteries in 
parallel to make a long term use battery bank. We found this is a good way to 
kill off good batteries in short order. Sooner or latter there is enviably one 
weak cell in the bunch. This week cell will drain the charge of the rest of the 
good batteries and untimely make them all bad. 
A weak or bad cell is one 
that losses its charge rapidly (due to internal leakage) the resulting 
individual 12 volt battery becomes around 11 volts or lower if allowed to set 
for a week or so. Excessive internal leakage can be a result of over sulfation 
in the cell. 
Most 12 volt batteries are sealed on the top and do not 
allow for measurement of individual cell voltage. To find a bad cell in a 
parallel connection of many 12Volt batteries, one has to charge the parallel 
combination and then disconnect all batteries and let them set for a few days to 
a week. The batteries with bad cells will ultimately show up with voltages below 
12 volts. In a low tech survival environment where one needs to use the 
batteries daily this becomes impractical.
A better approach is to use one 
battery at a time for power. From time to time completely charging it and 
rotating it out to then use another. Watch the voltage of the ones sitting idle 
to get an idea of how good or bad they are. If you really are on top of it and 
watching it and need the extra immediate power then go for several in parallel 
at the most. Try to match up batteries that have the same internal leakage or 
self discharging rate when doing this. Don't leave it hooked up this way for the 
long term.
Bottom line it is better to let a good battery set idle when 
charged than to put it in parallel with other 12 volt batteries. The weakest one 
will pull down all the rest and make the majority go bad before there normal 
life time is up. Thus the rule --- do not connect 12 volt batteries in parallel 
to make a long term use battery bank.
Rule: 2) The deeper the discharged 
state of a battery the shorted the time one should wait to charge it. If one 
leaves a 12 volt battery discharged for a month or longer it will not fully 
charge due to sulfation. This sulfation promotes dead or leaky cells. The longer 
it is left in a discharged state the less capacity it will have if it holds a 
change at all. 
If a battery is only partly discharged at say 70 %, then 
the battery can set for much longer (Say 6 months) before it sulfates very much. 
Sulfation forms when a cell is discharged. Non-reversible sulfation results when 
the battery sits for too long a time in a partly discharged condition. The 
sufation crystals become hard and irreversible with time. As a result they then 
do not go back into solution during charging. The battery is considered to be 
sulfated.
A sulfated 12 battery can sometimes be cured by over charging 
it for over a week or so at a minimum of 15 volts. Due to lack of power this can 
be hard to do in a primitive survival situation. Another way is to drain the 
battery acid and put distilled water in the cells. Let it sit for one hour. 
Charge at about 4 amp rate until hydrometer readings does not change over a 
period of time. This attempts to redissolve most of the sulfate crystals back 
into solution. 
Then drain and save this new wash acid. Wash the sediment 
out of the cell with more distilled water. It you use non-distilled water it can 
introduce salts that cause the battery to lose charge rapidly. Replace with new 
acid if you have it. If in a primitive environment, boil down the wash acid to 
make it stronger and then combine the original saved acid with the newly created 
wash acid and continue to slowly boil it down to an amount that will just fit 
back into the original battery. 
Use a non-corrosive or glass container 
to accomplish this. If the specific gravity gets between 1.25 and 1.3 then you 
have enough acid left to do the job.
Rule: 3) If you are making a long 
term use battery bank use 6 high capacity single 2 volt cells in series to make 
a single 12 volt battery. Get one extra cell to replace one that may go bad in 
the future. Chose an amp-hr rating that matches your charging capability. If you 
use a wind-mill and only get a small amount of Amp-hours out of your wind don't 
chose a high capacity battery bank. You will never keep it charged, the internal 
leakage will too much.
The advantage of this method is one can from time 
to time measure the voltage of each of the single cells while in operation. This 
is done by compare the voltage of each. The one with the consistent lowest 
voltage is the one most likely to go bad. It will be the one with the greatest 
internal leakage.
Rule: 4) When using a gasoline generator and a battery 
charger --- determine you're charging rate in amps and divide that into the 
amp-hour ratting of the battery to get how many hours you need to run your 
generator. For example 40 amps divided into 200 amp-hours for a battery = 5 
hours for a full charge. From time to time say every month or two over charge 
the battery bank to balance out the cells. This is called equalization. This 
insures each cell is fully charged. Cells become unbalanced with respect to 
state of charge with time, if never fully charged. This is due to different 
internal leakage rates of each cell.
Rule: 5) Determine your state of 
charge by measuring voltage for a battery in a resting state. This is a state of 
not being charged and not discharging and has not been actively being changed 
for more than 12 hours. Bottom line, wait 12 hours or more after charging and 
turn off all load and measure the voltage. A voltage of between 12.6 and 13.2 
indicates a full charge and 11.4 to 12.0 indicates discharged depending on local 
temperature and age of battery. 
Do not bother to purchase expensive 
meters that measure state of charge. They end up from personal experience being 
more trouble than they are worth. A simple low cost digital volt meter from 
Harbor Freight will work fine. Search for item 90899 for $2.99 or item 30756 for 
$9.99. Both are a "7 function multi-tester" and will work fine.
Internal 
leakage and sulfation are the prominent variables that determine useful battery 
life time that one needs to become familiar with and watch for. Batteries do 
wear out with repeated charging and discharging. When this happens the negative 
plate mostly still there as lead the positive plate is usually eaten up and 
there is a lot of lead sulfate down in the bottom of the cell. 
A PDF 
composed ready to print file can be downloaded from the Troubled Times files 
area for the TT-forum, under the folder "Batteries and battery power". The file 
"Batteries Lessons learned" has all the details of what I just discussed plus 
graphics.
With respect to your question on "Does the fluid have to be 
acid or alkaline?" The answer is NO there is such a thing as salt water 
batteries. There are Sea water batteries patented that utilizes sea water as the 
electrolyte, metals such as aluminum or magnesium as the positive terminal and 
solid insoluble chlorides as the negative terminal. A typical combination is 
silver chloride as the negative plates and, for example, magnesium for the 
positive plate. One can also use lead chloride, cuprous chloride or a lead 
chloride/cuprous chloride for the positive plate. A very simple construction 
that produces about .5 volt can be made from a penny and a Zink plated screw put 
in salt water. 8 of these cells in series are enough to run a led night light. 
Copper and Aluminum will produce a .3 volt cell. In a survival situation one 
should try other metals that might be available to see what one can get. 
Does this answer you questions on this subject?
Q: 
Survivors can grab car batteries, dry batteries from stores, and maybe other 
types of batteries to use. But these run out. If a battery is worn out in the 
Aftertime, after the pole shift, how can we replace them? Can they be repaired, 
the acid replaced, or rebuilt? 
There are always options. There 
is the previously discussed batteries where the electrolyte is Salt water 
battery, strong base, or strong acid and the use of any two dissimilar metals. 
How to make acids and basic solutions was discussed earlier to some extent. 
To some extent Lead-Acid batteries can be rebuilt. The first thing to 
try is the desulfation using distilled water trick described earlier. As a last 
resort. One can salvage the sulfated lead plates from the negative plates and 
reset them up in a container using half of them as positive plates with a week 
solution of sulfuric acid and start charging. One should reverse the charge on 
the plates for a few cycles then settle down with one polarity. This is 
basically how the first Lead-Acid batteries were made. You could burn in oxygen 
some lead and then try pasting some of the newly formed lead peroxide and Lead 
oxide on to the positive plate and use battery strength sulfuric acid. Run it 
through several charge and discharge cycles. This basically a simple explanation 
how modern batteries are made. However, there is a lot of patented know-how in 
doing this. A good book for the survivalist is called "Secrets of Lead-Acid 
Batteries Essential knowledge for Alternate Energy Applications" by T. J. 
Lindsay
Does this answer you questions on this subject?
Q: 
OK, we've got our batteries, the grid is down, but we can't keep the lights on 
forever from batteries. We need to generate power, if only to charge the 
batteries. Assuming that wind mills and water wheels will be some of the most 
reliable sources, and gas powered generators unlikely to be fueled after a 
cataclysm like a pole shift, what does this take? Let me quote from some stuff 
you've written in the past, Mike, for Troubled Times. 
Gasoline or diesel generators will be used until the fuel runs out. These 
will be used to charge batteries for a while. Gas generator power output should 
be matched to the maximum charging rate of the battery bank to minimize run time 
and save fuel, target to only need to run it maybe once every week or 
two.
Charging batteries and generating power over the long term will be 
by using, windmill wind power such as AirX or Arogen6 that sells for about $1000 
with tower included. Micro-Hydro power, hand cranking battery powered portable 
drill generators, water powered portable drill generators, and bicycle powered 
portable drill generators will be other methods of generating power.
The 
value of Micro Hydro power should not be under estimated. An off the shelf water 
pump that has an induction motor to run it can actually be converted into an AC 
generator. One runs a pipe up stream to get enough head pressure to turn this 
pump at close to rated speed. 
One adds a few AC capacitors to tune it to 
60 cycle resonance. Then start it turning and a quick zap with a bit of DC to 
get the magnetic field going and viola you have micro-hydro power that can 
actually produce 60 cycle alternating current. It can produce as much voltage as 
the pump is rated for. This could be 120 volts 240 volts etc. This is in common 
practice in developing countries like India. For how to implement this pick up a 
copy of 
"Pumps as Turbines A user's guide" by Arthur Williams and 
"Motors as Generators for Micro-Hydro Power" by Nigel Smith 
Does 
this answer you questions on this subject?
Q: How does the round 
and round of a wind mill or water wheel or big gen translate into an electron 
flow? Electro-magnetic power generation? The electrons chasing the magnet, in 
the direction of the round and round? You provided some stuff for the Troubled 
Times pages that included using an electric drill to convert the round and round 
to an electron flow into batteries. I was fascinated. The drill part was 
replaced with a crank or a connection to the round and round, and the 
electricity ended up coming OUT of the wires that you plug into the wall. Here's 
what you said about that:
Hook up 2 cordless drills to charge a 12 volt battery. A bicycle driven emergency battery charger can be made rather simply from two cordless permanent magnet drills and commonly available parts that will produce from 10 to 45 watts charging capacity. This can be used to charge 12 Volt storage batteries or a modified NiCad battery pack.
There is a basic know observation or fact in electricity that if one passes a 
wire though a magnetic field electrons will begin to flow. The faster one moves 
the wire the higher the pressure or voltage on every electron in the wire trying 
to push it out the end of the wire. Note that there is the more resistance to 
pushing it through the field when it is pushed faster. What is happing is we are 
converting mechanical energy into pumping the electrons in the wire in one 
direction or another. The shape and design of the motor or generator allows for 
maximum change in magnetic field strength across a coil of wire. A simple AC 
generator might be pictured as a hoarse shrew magnet with a coil of wire 
rotating around on a shaft between the north and south poles. 
In like 
manner a typical alternator or motor has field coils around the outside of an 
armature that rotates on the shaft. These field coils draw current to make the 
strong magnetic field that the wires in the armature cut through. If in place of 
these coils we place a set of permanent magnets then we do not have to waste any 
of the generated current to produce this field. Thus this becomes the design of 
most permanent magnet (PM) motors. Any PM motor can be used as a generator. All 
one has to do is to keep it turning in the same direction as the motor would be 
turning to produce the same plus and minus polarity across the output wire 
leads. 
Battery operated hand drills are designed to be light and 
portable. Thus they use PM motors which can be used as a generator by simply 
turning it. Test this for your self take the battery pack out of any battery 
operated hand drill and hook a couple of jumper lads to a volt meter or an amp 
meter then hold the trigger down and see what you get while turning the chuck by 
hand. If this generates electricity then the unit has a PM motor in it. 
PDF composed ready to print files can be downloaded from the Troubled 
Times files area for the TT-forum, under the folder "DC Power". There are 4 
files that have all the details of how to make DC power with these potable 
drills along with graphics.
Does this answer you questions on this 
subject?