Basic Survival

The Zetas have stated that after the Pole Shift, due to a combination of the former Earth poles melting and deep ocean water heated by the friction of the crustal shift, the sea level worldwide will rise by 675 feet. Mankind knows that the seas would rise 200 feet if the poles and the ice on Greenland melted. The additional rise would be due to the heat from friction. This will devastate many lands.

ZetaTalk Prediction 7/15/1995: After the cataclysms the existing polar ice will melt, while at the same time reforming over the new poles. The melting will occur faster than the reforming.  Where new poles take centuries to fully form, existing poles thrust under an equatorial sun melt rapidly. The melting poles will thus raise the sea level, worldwide, by 650 to 700 feet within two years. Any water at the new poles will freeze, but the buildup of ice on a pole is not altogether from the water that happened to be there when the pole took position. The buildup comes from precipitation, and this accumulates over hundreds of years. At some point an equilibrium is established, with icebergs breaking off and floating to warmer waters and the like. The Earth, therefore, will experience More Water in its oceans for some time after the cataclysms.

What to do when the water is rising and you have to keep stepping up out of the puddles. Tides roll further inland and the creeks swell. Rivers don’t drain and the basements start flooding. The solution? Build a houseboat. Grow key vegies like tomatoes or kale in containers on the deck. Fish for protein and if you don’t like the neighbors just pull up anchor and move on down the changing coastline. Collect seaweed if it floats by and hang some leftover morsel over the side to collect the crabs or attract fish.  The possibilities are endless.

ZetaTalk Advice 2001: Our suggestion is to plan for a floating community, as fishing will be abundant in the Aftertime. Build your boats now, in anticipation of this. You may be laughed at, as a modern day Noah, but you will be master of your own country so to speak, and able to travel where you wish.

It has been scientifically verified that adding iron ore dust atop the ocean waters will create a bounty in sea vegetation, kelp and seaweed and algae. This incites growth in fish and sea creatures. The iron comes from the charged red dust in the tail of Nibiru, and the CO2 comes from all the burning on land and exploding volcanoes that will occur during the Pole Shift. This process already returned the Humpback Whale from extinction via the Sargassum Seaweed explosion.

ZetaTalk Prediction 7/15/1995: Life in the oceans will not die out. The water will have a green tinge. Little known among the populace, but well known among scientists, is that the ocean is one of the largest producers of the atmospheric oxygen. After the cataclysms, the atmosphere oxygen will be rebuilt from the oceans. The oceans will appear greenish to many, and for good reason. All the fires will have placed a tremendous amount of carbon dioxide into the air, the stuff of which vegetative grown is made of. With little vegetation on land, the ocean kelp will absorb and utilize this. The oceans will be lush. Even those far inland should plan to take advantage of the lushness of the oceans, the fish and kelp, to support human survivors.

If your issue is not too much water but rather too little, hydroponics is the answer. Crops are grown in beds which are really shallow tanks or troughs that serve as a container for gravel or coarse sand. If there are several of these beds, they should be set up in a series at the same level and of a similar size. These beds should be about 3 feet wide and any convenient length, although 100 feet is common. The sides are about 8 inches high and with a V bottom so the center is 11 or 12 inches deep at the center. Beds intended to survive massive earthquake damage should be wooden frames lined with heavy vinyl sheeting. Pipes or other fittings should be plastic for increased flexibility and ease of repair after earthquake damage.

This permits an arrangement whereby a half-tile or similar device through the center of the bed will feed or drain the solution rapidly from one end of the bed to the other. It is very important that the slope be precise, with no low areas from which solution will not drain. Drainage in the beds is not only pointed toward the V bottom of the bed, but also toward one end of the bed, so that the V at the drain end is 2" lower than at the high end of the bed. This is a slight slope in the bottom of the trough.
 
For those without a pump, a simple pail and flexible hose system to give the hydroponic beds their daily nutrient bath works well.



Gravel for the bed should be fairly uniform in texture, about 1/2 to 1/4 in diameter, and washed. If you use sand, it should be coarse and it also should be washed. Beds should be filled to within 1 inch of the top. The mix should be sterilized with heat or steam to prevent mildew and fungus problems. Use the best seed for seedlings, planted in disease-free soil or sand and six inches or more high before transplanting. Loosen the planting media around the roots so that there will be as little injury as possible to the roots during transplanting. Rinse the planting media off the roots with water before planting in the hydroponic beds. Supporting structures may be necessary to hold up the plants, as plants loaded with fruit, for example, are heavy. Do not attach supports to the ends of beds because the weight of the plants may warp the structure and cause leaks or draining problems. All supporting wires are suspended from overhead supports that are spaced at intervals alongside the troughs.

Cooling of the hydroponic area can be achieved by ventilation, as transpiration of moisture off the leave cools the plants just as perspiration cools the human body. Slats or windows that allow the air to circulate should be included in the arrangement. Plants produce oxygen during the day, under lighted conditions, and carbon dioxide during the night. Hydroponic areas attached to living areas thus can oxygenate and cleanse the air of carbon dioxide, but should be closed off during the night so that oxygen is not depleted from the sleeping areas. Pollination can be done either by bees or by hand, by manually shaking or tapping the flowers once a day, going flower to flower so as to spread the pollen. Pollination helps increase fruit yield, and for some produce makes the difference between a high yield or no yield at all.

If distribution of food from grocery stores is the issue, you will need to establish a garden and save seed. When the grocery shelves are empty, and food distribution just not happening, you will have to feed yourselves. You should not wait for this time, but prepare! We are used to thinking of standard garden fare, but need to think outside the box. Highly nutritious weeds are right at hand, such as duckweed and kudzu. Everyday weeds such as plantain and dandelion have vitamins and minerals, as well as calories. The list is almost endless, and no need to tend the garden.

One of the best kept secret is meatless meals, possible if you have lysine rich vegies in your diet. Amaranth and corn combined provide the equivalent of red meat! These are grains that can be stored and keep well, as do buckwheat and various legumes.  Why haven’t you heard about this on TV? It’s all about the latest big burgers, making you think you could not survive without them. Where is the amaranth and corn combo PR campaign?

And don’t forget that saving seed is of prime importance. If you don’t properly save seed, you will have a one-time garden. There will be no running to the store for those little packets. Mother Nature wants her seeds dry and cool, so most seed only needs that preparation and protection. Many seeds will not spout unless gathered from a ripe fruit, so those peppers and squash and melons should be ripe before harvesting. Very ripe, almost to the point of rotting. Tomatoes too, need to have white mold eat away their slime, or the seed thinks it is still in the tomato and simply won’t sprout!

Keeping Chickens and Goats are a delight and a challenge, so get started as soon as possible so you put your learning curve behind you.  And when your herd and flock get large enough, invest in natural farm guards – geese and donkeys.


Looking for protein and tired of a vegetarian diet? Wildlife such as deer and fish scarfed up and scarce? Be resourceful! Rats and squirrels are certainly edible. Remember the movie the Hunger Games? Bugs and earthworms are some of the best nutrition the world has to offer, and are another greatly overlooked resource. They can be farmed -  nurtured and grown. Bugs are high in fat and protein. Locusts can be roasted on a stick, and earthworms are 82% protein.

Propagating annuals like lettuce or Corn or Beans is relatively easy. Just set aside a portion of your crop for seed production, letting it fully mature, and collect the dry seeds. But half our food supply comes from biennials, like Cabbage and Onions and Carrots, which insist on sleeping over during a dormant period before going to seed. Some edibles only require establishing a perennial patch, like Asparagus or Berries or planting an Apple tree. Let’s start with the easy ones.

Corn kernels are perhaps the easiest to harvest. All one needs to do is let a couple stalks of Corn live on past harvest time, until the Corn dries fully. The dryer the better. Farmers check their Corn fields for this, as they don’t want moldering Corn in their silos nor do they want the expense of drying it indoors. Corn is an easy plant to grow, fertilized by the wind which blows the pollen from the tassels down across the silk of neighboring Corn plants. Corn is known as a feeder crop, needing a lot of fertilizer - manure or ashes from wood burning stoves, and thus farmers alternate with Soy Bean crops which bind nitrogen to the the easiest garden vegies to grow are Beans and Legumes, and every culture has recipes for them. Delicious, satisfying, and a bit of protein too. Once again make sure the seeds you harvest are very dry. Allow the plant to literally die from old age to ensure maturity. One technique to get every last bit of nutrition to the seeds is to hang the plant upside down, draining the nutrients to the seeds. Beans are a hot weather plant, and if you plant when the soil is wet and cool the seed may molder in the ground.

Salad greens or vegies to stir-fry or steam are also mostly annuals, meaning they go to seed in their first year. This category includes Lettuce, Spinach, Bok Choy, Mustard Greens and Kale. Always collect seed from your best plants, passing along their good genetics in this way. Lettuce is among those plants that continually go to seed. One day you see a fluffy white flower with immature seeds within, and a couple days later this same flower has blown away in the wind. Harvest regularly. Spinach is a bi-sexual plant, meaning one must have male and female plants to produce fertile seeds. Harvest when the seed is mature and dry.

Melons, Squash, Cucumbers and Pumpkin are all fruits. Their yellow flowers turn into the fruit after the flower has been fertilized. In these days when bee colonies can be killed off, allow all the other fertilizing insects to flourish. Ants, sweat bees, anything that is crawling or buzzing around. They are your friends. Winter Squash and Pumpkin are superior foods to store in a cool cellar. They last for months and months. When collecting seed from plants in this category, take from a very ripe fruit, almost to the rotting point. Rinse the pulp from the seeds, dry thoroughly, and store in a cool dry place.

Tomatoes, and Tomato sauces, are so intrinsic to meals in so many cultures they deserve their own spot on the seed saving discussion, especially since effective seed saving requires an odd practice. One must molder the seeds, to rid the seeds of the slime that surrounds them inside the ripening Tomato. But can’t you just rinse off the slime? Apparently, that will not work. Even rinsed and dried, the Tomato seed still thinks it is in the Tomato! So one must put the slimy seeds into a bowl with a little water, and let sit until the bowl is covered with white mold.  The slime is eaten by mold. Then rinse, letting the heavy mature seeds sink to the bottom of the bowl and the chaff and mold flow off the top of the bowl. Then dry and store for the next year.

Strawberries also deserve a special mention, because Strawberry plants never die and they never sleep! Seriously, they will grow and produce berries 24 hours every day if given light. Thus making them ideal for indoor gardens. They will also survive harsh Winters, living on as a perennial. Strawberries also have multiple ways of reproducing. They produce runners, with tiny Strawberry plants at the end of each runner, seeking to put down roots. Strawberries are covered on the outside by little seeds. If in a warm humid environment, these seeds will sprout while still on the Strawberry. One can take a slice off a store bought Strawberry, lay that slice on some moist dirt, and voilà. Baby Strawberry plants.

Potatoes also deserve a special mention, as what meal is complete without Potatoes. Potatoes are usually grown from cutting up old Potatoes that have been stored in the cool room, so that each eye on a Potato has a portion of the Potato to give it strength to grow. A bag of Potatoes in the kitchen will start to sprout from the eyes. They don’t wait to be asked.  Potatoes can also be grown from the seed pods they produce. Dry the pods well, and break them open to release the tiny seeds. Of course this takes more time than planting Potato eyes.

Lysine rich plants like Amaranth and Buckwheat also deserve a special mention, as growing them allows you to replace meat protein with plant protein. Amaranth and Corn mixed together gives one the equivalent of red meat. Legume plants such as Peas also are high in lysine. These plants are annuals, so one only needs to collect the seed and plant the next year. Buckwheat seed stays with the flower pod and is easy to collect. The Amaranth plant is entirely edible, and the leaves are just as nutritious as the seeds. The seed plumes shed ripe seeds continuously, so most would be lost unless one goes down the row regularly and shakes the plume into an apron or sack. The tiny seeds are long lived. An ancient S American plant which is a gift to mankind.

Almost half of the vegetables we eat are not annuals, they are biennial seed producers, meaning they grow the first year, go dormant over what is assumed to be a Winter, and then produce seed the second year. The Cabbage family, Carrots, Beets, and the Onion family including Leeks – all are biennials. This means covering the plant with straw if in a temperate climate that does not get a hard frost, or digging some seed stock plants up and storing them in a root cellar. Seed production is prolific, so many plants are not needed. The plants so stored need the roots, with some soil or sand around them, but do not need much vegetation above the roots.

The term Root Cellar is old fashioned, from the days when seed collection was a family business, or a family farm business. Everyone did it. The Amish today rely heavily on Cabbage as a staple. But using the basement or a cool room to store a harvest over the Winter is likewise an old fashioned concept. The modern shopper goes to the grocery store to buy Squash, Pumpkin, Apples, Potatoes, and Cabbage. The Grocer ships these in from warehouses that store these items at cool temperatures. So if you have a Cool Room in your basement, then that can be used as a Root Cellar too.

Onions are a biennial, so must winter over for seed. Each Onion will produce beautiful white flower balls that become seed pods. Just let dry and then shuck the little black seeds out. Leeks likewise. Only the Gypsy Onion plant can winter over and attempts to propagate by runners. Garlic has been domesticated so long that its seed is often no longer viable. But Garlic can produce black seeds from its flowers. An alternate means of propagating is reproduction from cloves. Plant a clove in the spring, and by late Fall that glove will have become a Garlic bunch.

All Cabbage is biennial except for Bok Choy, the Chinese Cabbage that is an annual. Green Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, Cauliflower – all must Winter over. Bring a few healthy plants indoors, with roots attached, and cut back or prune the tops. Keep roots covered in a cool dark place until spring. Transplant outside in the Spring and up will come the seed stalks with little yellow flowers. Harvest the pods when dry, putting inside a cloth bag to dry. Do not allow the dry pods to shatter and spill the seed.

Carrots, Turnip, Beets, and Parsnip are root plants that are also biennials. Beets are particularly nutritious and are prolific seed producers. Radish also needs to Winter over. When transplanting in the Spring, make sure the entire root is covered. Other popular vegies that are biennial are the Chards and Celery.

What have we not covered? Oh yes, the perennials. Plants that do not die after a year, like the annuals, or die after their second year when they go to seed, are called perennials. The Rhubarb patch, famous for Rhubarb pie, and the Asparagus patch. Horseradish, Ginger Root, and Artichoke are all perennial once established. These plants do produce seed, but a gardener normally establishes a patch by getting a chunk of the plant, with well-established roots, from a vendor or neighbor.

Berry bushes, like Raspberry, Blueberry, or Blackberry are also perennials. They lob over branches that are called vines that will produce new plants where they touch the ground, thus the infamous berry thicket. Aggressive pruning of deadwood is required to prevent a thicket from forming. Fruit trees like Apple, Peach, Cherry and Plumb can be established from seed, salvaged from the fruit sold at the grocer, or by buying young trees from a vendor. They are covered in flowers in the Spring, and each flower becomes a fruit. Nut trees likewise can be established in this manner.

Cloning goes by many names, such as cuttings. To reproduce a Grape vine, cut a stem and put the bottom part in water. Rooting solution helps to encourage this process, but technically not needed. Roots form on the bottom and then the cutting is planted. One can start a Strawberry patch from a slice of a Strawberry. Or get seed from some Green Onions placed in water. Or root a Garlic clove or a piece of Potato. Then from this living plant, seed production can start.